Thursday, 2 May 2013

Fitting an outboard bracket

My DIY skills are poor at best, however I really needed an outboard bracket on Quest before I took her onto the river nene.

I purchased a removable outboard bracket, which I favor because it can be removed when the lighting board is in the back of the boat or when the boat is being sailed without an engine. They are more expensive than the fixed variety, the cheapest I found was from Sheridian Marine for  £85 with delivery, this does not include the fitting bolts either which I purchased from seascrew for £13.

Deciding where to fit the bracket was fairly obvious on my boat, I had a small inspection hatch on the
starboard seat which would allow me access to tighten up bolts and fit a backing plate. Also the starboard side was favorable as when my Honda 2hp engine was fitted it would allow me good access to the engine controls. Other considerations for placement of the pad included making sure that the propeller wouldn't fit the rudder when either were turned and that the pad was low enough to the water to ensure that the prop wouldnt come out of the water. After finding the right place I simply used the outboard pad as a guide to drill 4 holes through the boat.

After securing the bracket with a couple of stainless M8 x 75mm bolts with Countersunk heads and nylon
locking nuts, I noticed that the pad was so close to the wooden overhanging lip above it that the removable bracket would be impeded by the wooden lip and either wouldn't come out or damage the boat. The solution was to make another pad out of 25mm plywood and place it behind the bracket to bring out from the boat. The photo shows the finished pad following 2 coats of epoxy resin and 2 coats of international yacht paint.

I also made two small pads to support the boat the transom of the boat inside, again these were made of

25mm, ideally I would of made another complete pad like the one above to go inside but I was running out of plywood so just used a couple of large off cuts, with I then coated with epoxy, no paint needed as it (should be) dry inside the boat and also the epoxy only needs covering if it will be exposed to sun as the UV deteriorates it.
After fitting the pad, the only job left  was to apply some silicone sealeant around the bolt holes to stop water
ingress (a job still outstanding). I did a trial fit of the engine and to my dismay I thought that the engine was to high to enable the prop to be deep enough in the water and the engine was not able to swing up onto its latch (aka sailing mode) as the metal railing bars on Quest stopped the engine tipping forwards all the way.

However there was a simple solution to both problems, first I inverted the black bar on the bracket which
was pointing upwards and now points downwards, this dropped the engine 2 - 3 inches lower which was enough. If it did need lowering more, I could of chopped some of the wooden bracket off the top or drilled a couple of new holes in the wooden bracket to lower it further.

In order to allow the engine to swing forwards I made a small pad out of 25mm plywood and put it
inbetween the black bar and wooden pad, this moved the engine out just far enough from the boat to allow it to tip all the way forward onto its retaining latch.

1 comment:

  1. Thanks for this - it's given me some ideas for doing the same thing to my wayfayer.